In the hairdressing world, foils are commonly used to add highlights to a client's hair. Very few people other than hair artists know the other amazing uses for foils!
In addition to highlighting, you can use foils to do the following:
lowlight
dye most of the hair and leave a few bits natural (sort of like the opposite of highlighting)
protect sections of hair from becoming over-processed
add in additional streaks that are bleached or coloured
touch up just the roots of colour that's growing out
The truth is that hairdressing foil is a very versatile tool and can be used for several different tasks to create an array of interesting looks.
First, I'll tell you the right way to apply foils to the head. Then, I'll explain all the different things you can do once the foils are in, and along the way I'll show you some videos to illustrate the process.
Can I Use Aluminum Foil?
Yes, you can use regular aluminum foil for your hair, as long as the dye you're using says it's safe with metal. You could even use waxed paper if you wanted, and of course the stuff you buy at a beauty supply store will work, too, although it may be more expensive.
How to Determine What Thickness to Use
Since foil comes in various strengths and thicknesses, you'll want to consider this, too. The trick is using a material that is tough enough to hold up to the chemicals in the dye and still malleable enough to keep the sections of dyed hair separate. Another way to make sure your foil will hold up is to fold about an inch of the foil down on the end that will touch the roots of the hair. This will make that end doubly strong and will help ensure that the dye will be contained.
the colour or bleach you'll be using (mixed, if applicable)
a tail comb
a tinting brush for applying the dye
strips of foil
Step 1: Section the Hair
Section off the hair that you wish to colour. Dividing that hair into smaller bundles will give you more control over the process. Temporarily secure each section with a hairdressing barrette.
A tail or rattail comb (second from left) makes it easy to select pieces of hair to dye. | Source
Step 2: Use a Tail Comb to Select Hair to Dye
Use the end of the tail comb to select which pieces you will dye. This requires artfully grabbing chunks of the hair or weaving the end of a tail comb through the hair to select separate sections. For a natural look, large chunks of hair are not recommended; instead, use smaller sections and many separate foils.
If you're working on a friend's hair, you'll want to start with the sections at the bottom (closer to the neck) and work your way towards the front (forehead).
If you're doing your own hair, you'll probably start at the sides and work your way up to the top.
Step 3: Place the Foil
Place the sturdy, folded end of the foil under the section of hair you're going to apply the dye to, preferably with the silver side facing up (although the foil can be used either way).
Brushing the dye into the hair with a tinting comb. The foil acts almost like a canvas. | Source
Step 4: Apply the Dye
Apply the hair colourant that you are using, provided that it is safe to use with metal, with a tinting comb. Make sure to thoroughly coat the hair. Use the foil itself as a sort of canvas or table, as it will provide a little support for the strand of hair you are coating.
Step 5: Wrap the Foil
Make sure the foil is tucked in close to the scalp and covering as much of the roots of the hair as possible to prevent the dye from getting onto other sections of hair.
To wrap up the foil, begin by taking the end (opposite the roots) and folding it up and over so that the hair is entirely encased in an envelope of foil.
Do not press too hard when you fold the foil or you will cause colour leakage.
It will take practice to get this perfect! (Remember, for extra long hair, you can use two separate pieces of foil sandwiched together.)
Use the foil to separate the dyed and undyed sections of hair. | Source
Step 6: Fold the Foil
Now, you can fold the foil so that the ends of the foil-encased hair come up close to the roots. Be careful not to press too hard or you'll have a fold-crease in your dye. If the hair is long, you may wish to gently roll the foil from the bottom upward to the scalp instead of folding.
Don't worry if the foil looks messy at this stage! Practice is required to make a perfectly folded foil.
Step 7: Repeat
Repeat
